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Hang a FLAT PANEL TV

April 2006 By Grant Clauser


Step 1: Find wall studs

Once you’ve selected the spot, you need to find the wall studs. The wall studs don’t need to be directly in the middle of your mount location because the mount allows for some horizontal adjustment once it’s on the wall.

Use an electronic stud finder rather than a hammer and your ear to locate the studs. We used a Black and Decker BullsEye stud finder/laser level. It easily identified both edges of the studs so we could place the bolt holes directly in the middle. This model will also find pipes and electricity lines, but we didn’t encounter any of those.





Step 2: Place and level
the template

Most mounting kits will come supplied with a paper or cardboard template to assist you in properly marking the drill spots. The template that comes with the U3 has a center mark so you can pin it to the wall while you level it, and double sided tape to adhere it to the wall. We used the BullsEye laser level to level the template, then unpeeled the tape and secured the level template to the wall. Then we used the stud finder to locate the two studs we’d be using and marked the center on the template. We also marked the spots where we’d need to make holes for the power and signal lines.

Step 3: Drill the bolt holes

Next, simply start drilling your bolt holes with the drill bit size specified by the mount kit instructions. This is where we ran into a bit of difficulty. Since we were drilling into wood studs, we selected a ¼-inch bit, but we soon discovered that our wall was not constructed of standard-depth studs as the drill went through the wood and into concrete after only about 2 inches (including drywall). This meant that most of the mounting bolt’s length would be stuck in concrete, not wood. We had to switch to ½-inch masonry bits to drill out the concrete and use the supplied concrete anchors. It took a lot more time, and the concrete dust made a huge mess, but it worked nonetheless.



Step 4: Cut Cable Holes

If you’re hanging your plasma TV on the wall, you’ll also want to hide the power cord and video cables–which means making large holes in the wall. You’ll want to make your cable holes along the studs so you can attach the wall boxes to the studs. We were further challenged in this instance because our inside wall space was very shallow so we couldn’t use standard-sized wall boxes. The sheetrock on this wall was also double thickness, making sawing a challenge, and a mess. For the electrical line we used standard wall plates. For the video cables we used data wall boxes and wall plates we found at Home Depot.

Because the TV’s power cable wasn’t long enough to reach an outlet, and running that cable through the wall probably isn’t a good idea anyway, we installed a power outlet directly behind the plasma and an inlet (like the powerbridge inlet at www.powerbridgesolution.com) one directly below it at floor level and connected the two with in-wall rated electrical cable, making in effect, an in-wall extension cord. This way we weren’t working with any live electricity. The TV would be plugged into the top outlet, and a short extension cord was plugged into the new inlet at the floor level, then plugged into a power surge strip which was connected to a live outlet. This method, while seemingly complicated, allows you to connect your TV to a surge suppressor or power enhancer, and in the end makes for a professional-looking install.



Step 5: Attach the Mounting rails

While one person was working on the wall holes, the other was attaching the rails to the back of the plasma TV. The rails are what attach the TV to the wall plate. They attach easily with supplied screws and washers. The rails include alignment marks to ensure that both are at the same level.



Step 6: Mount the Wall Plate

Once your cable holes and wall plates are all in place, you can bolt the wall plate onto the wall. Use the supplied 3/8-inch lag bolts and washers. Twist them down tight, but not so tight that you’ll break them off–which we did in one case, and had to start all over again by moving the whole rig up about an inch. This was our fault for not drilling the holes deep enough.



Step 7: Fish the Wires

It’s important to fish the wires through the wall holes before hanging the TV, because once the TV is on the wall, it’ll be covering the holes. If you’re running cable with large end connectors, such as DVI, then it may be easier to mount the wall plate after you’ve pulled the wires through.



Step 8: Hang the TV

Now it’s time to hang the plasma on the wall. Since a 50-inch plasma is a heavy thing, don’t even consider doing this without help. The U3 includes two lateral rods which the mounting rails fit onto. If you’re installing a 60-inch plasma you will probably need to attach the supplied rod extensions, but they weren’t necessary for this install. Since the U3 can be tilted, make sure both rails are set at the same tilt setting so one side isn’t tilted more than the other. When you lift the display onto the rods, make sure both the top and bottom part of each rail is connected to the rods before you let go of the display.

Once the display is hanging on the rods, you can shift it a few inches left or right on the rods to center it properly on your wall. You can also further adjust the tilt of the display, but I found it better to remove the display from the wall to adjust the tilt because turning the tensioning levers was difficult while the TV was on the wall.

After the TV is secure and set at the tilt angle you want, you can then connect all the cables to the TV’s inputs. I wrapped the excess power cable behind the TV to keep it neatly out of sight. Finally, clean up the dust, tools and unused parts, sit back on the sofa and enjoy the view.

Wiring without Holes



If you want to hang your TV on the wall, but don’t want to make the large holes required to run the cables and power line, Superb Home Theater has an alternative for you. The Wiring Solution product is a wire channel that you attach to the wall. It can
accomodate up to eight A/V and power cables.
You can then sand and paint it to make it blend into the wall. The Wiring Solutions come in 18-inch lengths and come with three screws and anchors.
www.superbhometheater.com

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COMMENTS

Most Recent Comments:
Plasma Mounting - Posted on July 02, 2009
Thanks for this informative post
Plasma Mounting - Posted on June 16, 2009
Thanks for this post
Evan - Posted on December 10, 2008
Ok, to say "It's as safe as plugging you TV into a surge protector via an extension cord.", please DO NOT feed an extension cord through the wall - building code prevents it, guaranteed. The PowerBridge solution is great because it uses the same Metal-Clad (MC) electrical wire used for outlets. The bonus is the power comes from a power conditioner or surge protector so you don't have to mount surge. The "dual-male" solution consists of two male plugs (for tv) leading to one female FROM surge.
Jay - Posted on January 27, 2008
PLEASE...don't mount your TV above the fireplace! You will be putting your local chiropractor's kids through college. The TV will simply be too high (even angled down). It is not always practical to do, but try watching any TV for a few hours that is mounted much higher than your head when seated. After only a few days, you'll wish the TV was lower. Don't believe me? Go to one of those big TV stores with lots of TVs on the wall, pull up a chair, and try watching the higher ones for a while.
steve - Posted on January 09, 2008
I think the last 2 people misunderstand the electrical system. It goes like this: original standard electrical outlet to surge protector to lower 'male' plug to upper 'female' plug to TV. If someone unplugs the lower cable, the male prongs are dead - no electricity. It's as safe as plugging you TV into a surge protector via an extension cord. Why do you think there are 2 male ends to the cord - that would be useless - where would you plug the TV into?
Oliver - Posted on November 22, 2007
As a registered P.E. in the State of Ohio I agree with J mack. This special power cord with dual male ends is a very bad idea. There is a reason why the live end of the power cord and your outlets are female and not hot rods poking out to zap anyone. please do not do this. I am sure your insurance co. would not cover you.
J Mack - Posted on August 09, 2007
Ok, i just read the post about the "special" electrical outlet system using what appears to be a dual power cord you made that has 2 MALE plugs, one at the surge protector and the other male end plugged into the lower outlet...???? WOW BAD UNSAFE!! wht happens if someone unplugs that cord from the lower wall outlet?? LIVE ELECTRICITY, SHOCK!! TRY THIS INSTEAD. Powerbridgesolution
Really bad advise to make a NON-CODE COMPLIANT "extension" cord, that
s why you can't buy one already made.
melissa - Posted on June 20, 2007
I am building a house and putting the tv about the fireplace. How do I hide the dvd player?
Lono Goo - Posted on April 16, 2007
What if you have single wall construction, without studs behind them? Please advise! Thank you.